Fall is here! The change in the season means for some big changes to prepare for in the yard. Dropping temperatures and falling leaves provide for some extra chores around the house. If some of these chores are left unattended, your lawn could pay a price!
Leaves: Mulch, Burn, or Throw Away?
The biggest chore we can think of in the fall is dealing with all of the leaves. Should you rake them into big piles and burn at the edge of your property? Should you shove them in lawn bags and leave them by the curb? Should you just mow over and mulch them to scatter them on your lawn?
The answer:
Mulch! By mulching these leaves, you are allowing nutrients to be returned to the soil. Mulching these leaves will not be as simple as mowing your lawn. Make several passes in different directions to ensure no large clumps are left and the leaf material is finely chopped up.
Piles of leaves that are left unattended will have some very nasty consequences in the Spring. The compaction of the wet leaves will choke out the grass it is covering. The leaves provide a great place for different winter fungus to grow and spread. Waiting until Spring for leaf cleanup will do more harm than good. Thin areas that have large clumps of leaf debris collected will become stressed and drastically hurt turf quality.
Fertilize!
As the fall months lead into winter, the turf will need more nutrients. The grass will need more nitrogen to sustain during the winter months as it enters dormancy. When spring arrives, the turf will be in a much better position than lawns that received no fall fertilization. It is recommended by turf scientists to apply at least 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet during these fall and winter applications. This increased nitrogen will bring great benefit to the lawn.
Proper Mowing
As we have always said, proper mowing height is at least 3.5 inches for cool season grasses. This does not change when the seasons change. For your lawn to maintain through the winter, the grass plant needs to be as strong as possible. By mowing at that height, it is proven that the turf will be healthier year round.
When do I seed?
Unfortunately if you are just now asking that question, it is almost too late! The optimum time to seed is between August 15th and September 30th. The seed needs time to germinate and grow before the first frost hits. Any seeding done after September 30th is at risk and we do not encourage it.
Be sure to follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram for more lawn care tips!
Thursday, September 22, 2016
Thursday, September 15, 2016
How We Protect The Environment!
The recent news coming from South Carolina of a massive bee kill from pesticide use has reminded us of the high risks involved in our industry. When we first learned about this tragedy, we asked a few questions that were quickly answered. It appears that a major lapse in following proper procedures were made when making the pesticide application.
As more of the story was made public, we decided that we should make a clear statement on how we protect the environment and the practices and policies we have in place to keep everyone and everything safe.
We feel the first step in protecting the environment is to have properly trained and licensed technicians. Every technician employed at Bowman's Pro Turf carries a Pesticide Applicator License through the Office of Indiana State Chemist (OISC). This license is obtained only after the successful completion of the CORE examination issued by OISC. Once the exam has been passed, our technicians receive in depth, on site training. Our trainers have a combined 50 years experience in the lawn care industry.
Properly Trained and Licensed Technicians
We feel the first step in protecting the environment is to have properly trained and licensed technicians. Every technician employed at Bowman's Pro Turf carries a Pesticide Applicator License through the Office of Indiana State Chemist (OISC). This license is obtained only after the successful completion of the CORE examination issued by OISC. Once the exam has been passed, our technicians receive in depth, on site training. Our trainers have a combined 50 years experience in the lawn care industry.
Proper Disposal of Containers
Each day we go through dozens of bags and jugs of products. All of the used containers are disposed of in an OISC approved facility. Any jug that contained a liquid product is triple-rinsed and holes are drilled in the bottom, rendering them useless. We also require our technicians to make a count each morning and evening of total bags loaded and used. This allows us to track the amount of waste that we produce and ensure that no trash is left behind on a job site.
Responsible Use and Knowledge of Fertilizer and Pesticides
Several times a year we attend seminars and training sessions regarding industry updates. Through these sessions, new information is shared about advances made on the products we use. We also are extremely conscious about how much products we use on lawns. There are very specific regulations that mandate how much of certain products can be used in a given time frame. We watch these regulations closely and adjust our lawn care programs accordingly. We also are very aware of the recommended nitrogen amounts suggested by several reputable institutions. This allows us to further adjust our programs while still maintaining maximum results.
Pesticides and herbicides that are used are strictly regulated both at the national and state level. Every product that we apply has already met strict regulator standards put forward by the Environmental Protection Agency. We will never use a product that has not met these requirements. Similarly, each product is issued a label by the EPA. That label instructs the user of specific site, personal protection equipment, rate of product, and any special restrictions. The label is law and if any part of the label is not followed, the user is in violation and at risk of harming themselves, others, and the environment.
Avoid Adverse Weather Conditions During Applications
Weather is one of the biggest challenges in the lawn care industry. If we feel that the weather conditions are not fitting to make an application, we will hold off until it is more appropriate. Wind can blow products off and away from the indented target. We are constantly monitoring the weather and making decisions accordingly.
To protect our liquid products from runoff, we mix and additive in our tanks that enhance the ability for the product to stick to the surface of the intended target. If it rains shortly after an application, our products have a higher chance of staying where we applied them and less chance of runoff.
Pollinator Protection
Earlier in the year we shared how we have partnered with Bayer Bee Care for their Feed A Bee program. So far, we have distributed over 3,000 wildflower seed packets in the Wabash Valley. We have trained our technicians about how to properly apply our products without harming pollinators. We have several customers who are bee keepers and have worked with them to maintain a pollinator friendly lawn care program.
You can read our article about the FeedABee program here.
 |
| Pollinator Protection EPA |
Follow Strict Office of Indiana State Chemist Guidelines
There are hundreds of laws and regulations in place to protect the environment. We gladly follow and abide to each of these regulations. Wavering from any of the safety regulations that are in place can create a business culture of taking short cuts. We will never cut corners when it comes to protecting our employees, our customers, and our environment.
For more information about the Office of Indiana State Chemist you can visit their website at www.oisc.purdue.edu.
Wednesday, August 31, 2016
Turf Disease Outbreak!
This summer has provided the lawn care industry with a lot of challenges. While we can control the products used and application technique, we cannot control the weather. Heat, humidity, and rain have caused an outbreak in turf diseases in the Wabash Valley. We wanted to take some time to share what some common trends we are experiencing in lawn care.
You may ask "Why does my lawn have the disease and the house down the street does not?" That neighbor may have a different type of grass, less shade, mow at the proper height of 3.5 inches, have better air flow, etc. We first need to identify the disease and understand all factors involved.
Disease Triangle
An easy way to understand why diseases in turf occurs is to look at what is called "The Disease Triangle". If one side of the disease triangle is missing, a disease will not cause a problem. The three sides are:
Resources
You may ask "Why does my lawn have the disease and the house down the street does not?" That neighbor may have a different type of grass, less shade, mow at the proper height of 3.5 inches, have better air flow, etc. We first need to identify the disease and understand all factors involved.
Disease Triangle
An easy way to understand why diseases in turf occurs is to look at what is called "The Disease Triangle". If one side of the disease triangle is missing, a disease will not cause a problem. The three sides are:
- Host Component- the plant must be susceptible to disease. Depending on the type of grass in your lawn, you may be more at risk than others.
- Pathogen Component- the disease pathogen must be present.
- Environmental Component- conditions must be favorable.
Understanding the triangle can allow us to easily identify how diseases spread and attack lawns.
Grass Types
Some grass types are more susceptible to diseases than others. Overall, Kentucky Bluegrass is the most high at risk, while turf type fescue has more disease resistance. Knowing what kind of grass is present in the lawn can be a key to identifying the disease. Some diseases will not affect certain grasses.
During the heat, grass stops growing as fast. Most turf grasses have diseases in the spring months but go unnoticed because we are mowing so frequently. As the summer heat stress slows growing, the diseases can become more apparent and noticeable. Once it cools off and the turf starts growing, you will see significant improvement.
 |
| Grass Types |
Soil Fertility
Many diseases thrive based on the fertility of the soil. Diseases can become an issue depending on the grass type and soil fertility. If too little nitrogen is present, the turf may become more be more susceptible to disease, recover slower, and have a longer outbreak of symptoms. Our "Healthy Basic Lawn Program" is designed to carefully manage the amount of nitrogen applied throughout the year.
Environmental Component
This summer has been unusually wet. Jessie over at Channel 2 has been talking about the record rainfall we have had in the last 3 months. Combine the rain with the humidity and you have the perfect disease growing condition. Turf diseases are a fungus, or mold. The hot, humid, and wet summer months has been the perfect environment for turf diseases to thrive.
Disease Control
Treating a turf disease is very similar to treating a cold. We can apply a fungicide if desired, however, that will only be treating the symptoms. We also compare lawns getting diseases to human diseases. We have no explanation as to why I get a cold but my wife does not and we live in the same house. In most cases, the disease will not kill the turf. Once the temperature drops and humidity settles, we will see significant improvement in the lawn.
 |
| Diseased Lawn |
Over the last 28 years, we have worked with many national, regional, and local organizations to stay educated and informed in the lawn care industry. One of our most reliable resources we have is Purdue University. Their free publication, Turfgrass Disease Profile, is a great way to learn more about turf diseases.
Working with turf and lawns is very scientific. Everything that we say and do has a scientific reason behind it. We have to understand the full biology of the plant, the environment, and cultural practices to properly address any issues. If we inspect a lawn and come to the conclusion that a turf disease is present, we will let you know why, how, and what can be done.
Wednesday, July 13, 2016
Midwest Regional Turf Foundation: Purdue Summer Field Day 2016
 |
| Purdue University Logo on turf |
It is very hard to accurately describe the Daniel's Center. The grounds hold 22 acres dedicated to studying turf, both residential and sport. Experiments happen daily at all times of the year. Professors and companies work together to test anything you can think of in the turf industry. Throughout the 22 acres, we were able to have hands on experience with the professors and their research as they led us through training sessions and discussion. Some of what we talked learned about was the "behind the scenes" experiments that happen years before a new product, equipment, or grass seed cultivar hits the market. Everything that was discusses helps us to provide a better service to you!
Not all grass seed is created equally!
One of my favorite experiment plots at the Daniel's Center is where they are testing new cultivars of grass seeds. These experiments test several things including drought stress, disease resistance, and durability.
 |
| Bluegrass Seed Plots |
The most obvious difference was in the Kentucky-31 or K31 seed. A homeowner will often read "Kentucky" and assume that it is a bluegrass. That is not the case! If you look close at the following picture, you can see the K31 is much lighter in color and has a wider blade.
The white grub is one of the most destructive insect pests in our region. This area is being used to test different behaviors of the white grubs and their adult beetles. It is fenced off with electrical wire and the beetles are protected in small cages to protect them from being eaten by animals.
The hot, humid, and rainy conditions have produced an ideal environment for many turf diseases.If you look closely at this picture, you can see the middle area was treated with a fungicide. The surrounding areas might have also been treated with fungicide but maybe at a different rate, with a different machine, or different formulation.
This area shows the effectiveness of about 10 different types of crabgrass pre emergent used at the same time. The study went into detail so far as to test the effect of watering in immediately or waiting a week for rain. Each herbicide was also tested at different strengths.
Summary
Overall we had a great day! Special thanks to everyone how put on this event and Dr. Aaron Patton who led many of our sessions. We had a great time learning about current topics in the lawn care management industry and how we can better serve our customers. A lot of what we talked about was how we can achieve better results. I was fascinated to see how many different ways they test one product before it even makes it back to the manufacture for final production. We talked about much more than what I can fit into this blog post!
 |
| Kentucky 31 or K31 grass between Turf Type Tall Fescue |
Walmart and Rural King will have K31 grass seed on sale for a very cheap price. As you can see, even with ideal irrigation, fertilizer and weed control, the K31 stands out as undesirable among the rest. It goes to show that you get what you pay for.
Thousands of studies!
As the day progressed, we were able to learn about just a handful of the current studies that are happening. It was fascinating to hear how many different ways they test equipment, products, grass types, and much more. All of the experiments they preform are replicated at multiple locations throughout the 22 acre complex to ensure that they have the most accurate data. Below are pictures of some of the experiments.
This picture shows one experiment testing what affects mowing height and fertility have on dandelion blooms. A common theme throughout every experiment that involved mowing height was that the higher you mow, the less weeds are present. You can also observe that the turf is darker on the plots that are mowed above 3.5 inches.
 |
| Mowing Height Demonstration |
 |
| White Grub Management Experiment |
 |
| Golf Course Turf Disease Management |
 |
| Pre-emergent Experiment |
 |
| Field Day Book |
As I have said before, lawn care is more than just a hobby. We are constantly reading and learning about different turf management topics. We utilize experts to become better informed so that we can provide the best service to our customers. While having a license to perform lawn care applications is important, a company also needs to have the knowledge of how to use that license.
Be sure to follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram! Head over to our website for more information about services we offer.
About MRTF
The mission of the MRTF is to support turf research and education at Purdue University for the advancement of the turfgrass industry.
Visit www.mrtf.org to learn more about the Midwest Regional Turf Foundation.
About MRTF
The mission of the MRTF is to support turf research and education at Purdue University for the advancement of the turfgrass industry.
Visit www.mrtf.org to learn more about the Midwest Regional Turf Foundation.
Tuesday, June 7, 2016
Problem Pest: Moles
Moles are some of the most destructive pests that we see on a daily basis. Recently, we have received more phone calls than normal regarding mole treatments and what solutions we have for this issue. Below are some common questions and answers about moles. All of this information can be found through Purdue University and has research to back it up.
If I have moles that means I have grubs!
No. This is simply not the case. Moles primarily eat earth worms. If you do have grubs, they will also eat the grubs. We have been asked to preform grub treatments on lawns to "get rid of the moles." Because this is a huge misconception, we have not and will not ever claim that the grub treatment will get rid of moles. Getting rid of grubs will not get rid of moles.
Spraying castor oil and soap on my lawn will prevent moles, right?
Again, no. There is nothing on the market that has been scientifically proven to prevent moles. Spraying oils and soaps on your lawn will actually do more damage than good. Articles and DIY blogs instruct to soak the lawn so visible puddles are shown. These pictures show the oily rainbow slick produce by the "treatment." Home remedy solutions to moles and other lawn care nuisances are often more toxic and harmful to the environment than products specifically designed for that use.
If you want to waste time, money, and hurt the environment then go ahead and spray this oily solution all over your lawn. We do not recommend going this route, no matter what the DIY bloggers say.
Chewing gum, beans, and bombs!
No, no and NO! These remedies simply do not work. Many of the home remedy solutions involve a "Caddyshack" like approach to fix the issue. Almost all of these remedies are more harmful to humans than they are to moles.
Traps don't work!
You guessed it...no! Traps have been our most reliable form of mole control. With the proper placement and trap, moles stand little chance. The more traps that are properly set, the more likely the moles will be caught and eliminated. Many consumers believe that traps are just like snake oil and do not work. Traps need to be well maintained and placed in areas where moles are active. If nothing is caught, move the trap!
Our Recommendations...
We recommend and provide 2 treatment options for moles.
 |
| Mole |
No. This is simply not the case. Moles primarily eat earth worms. If you do have grubs, they will also eat the grubs. We have been asked to preform grub treatments on lawns to "get rid of the moles." Because this is a huge misconception, we have not and will not ever claim that the grub treatment will get rid of moles. Getting rid of grubs will not get rid of moles.
Spraying castor oil and soap on my lawn will prevent moles, right?
Again, no. There is nothing on the market that has been scientifically proven to prevent moles. Spraying oils and soaps on your lawn will actually do more damage than good. Articles and DIY blogs instruct to soak the lawn so visible puddles are shown. These pictures show the oily rainbow slick produce by the "treatment." Home remedy solutions to moles and other lawn care nuisances are often more toxic and harmful to the environment than products specifically designed for that use.
If you want to waste time, money, and hurt the environment then go ahead and spray this oily solution all over your lawn. We do not recommend going this route, no matter what the DIY bloggers say.
Chewing gum, beans, and bombs!
 |
| Mole Run Damage |
No, no and NO! These remedies simply do not work. Many of the home remedy solutions involve a "Caddyshack" like approach to fix the issue. Almost all of these remedies are more harmful to humans than they are to moles.
Traps don't work!
You guessed it...no! Traps have been our most reliable form of mole control. With the proper placement and trap, moles stand little chance. The more traps that are properly set, the more likely the moles will be caught and eliminated. Many consumers believe that traps are just like snake oil and do not work. Traps need to be well maintained and placed in areas where moles are active. If nothing is caught, move the trap!
Our Recommendations...
We recommend and provide 2 treatment options for moles.
- Mole Bait-The mole bait that we use looks like earth worms. When applied correctly, the moles will eat the bait and be eliminated.
- Mole Traps- The mole traps that we use are spring loaded and all underground. We recommend moving the traps ever few days having several traps in the infested area.
Remember, there is nothing on the market that will ever prevent mole families from moving into your lawn. As research has shown, the most effective and reliable method is trapping.
Always read and follow all labeled instructions when using traps or bait. If you are unsure, call a professional like us. We can provide these treatments and get your on the right track to finding a solution to manage this issue!
Always read and follow all labeled instructions when using traps or bait. If you are unsure, call a professional like us. We can provide these treatments and get your on the right track to finding a solution to manage this issue!
You can read more about moles here! Make sure that you are getting your information from a credible source. Just because you hear multiple say the same thing does not make it right. Do your research like we have. Check multiple sources and see what experts say. There are individuals who spend years doing research on the environment.
Be sure to follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram. Head over to our website to find our more information about our company and the services we offer.
Friday, June 3, 2016
Emerald Ash Borer Alert!
A few weeks ago I called the Indiana Department of Natural Resources to report more ash trees in Vigo County that are infected with Emerald Ash Borer's. We were told that the Emerald Ash Borer infestation in Indiana is so severe that they can no longer manage the database to track it.
There are 150 million ash trees in Indiana. Without proper identification, care, and maintenance of ash trees, we are facing a very serious problem!
What is an Emerald Ash Borer?
Emerald Ash Borer's are not native to the United States. This invasive species likely came from Asia through shipping containers and survived for about 10 years before being discovered. As the name suggests, this green insect attacks ash trees. It spreads naturally and through human movement of infested firewood. The Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) creates D shaped holes in the tree. These holes are random throughout the tree and seem to have no uniform placement.
What does it do?
Simply put, the Emerald Ash Borer destroys ash trees. Burrowing under the bark of an ash tree, it creates tunnels that eventually overtake the trees ability to survive. Over time, the canopy of the tree will start to die back. We use the canopy as a gauge to measure how much damage has been done and how likely we will be able to save the tree. All ash trees are at risk at this time. Because the infestation can only be handled by properly treating the EAB, ash trees MUST be treated in order to survive. It is only a matter of time for an uninfected ash tree to be overcome by the EAB.
There are 150 million ash trees in Indiana. Without proper identification, care, and maintenance of ash trees, we are facing a very serious problem!
What is an Emerald Ash Borer?
Emerald Ash Borer's are not native to the United States. This invasive species likely came from Asia through shipping containers and survived for about 10 years before being discovered. As the name suggests, this green insect attacks ash trees. It spreads naturally and through human movement of infested firewood. The Emerald Ash Borer (EAB) creates D shaped holes in the tree. These holes are random throughout the tree and seem to have no uniform placement.
 |
| Emerald Ash Borer |
Simply put, the Emerald Ash Borer destroys ash trees. Burrowing under the bark of an ash tree, it creates tunnels that eventually overtake the trees ability to survive. Over time, the canopy of the tree will start to die back. We use the canopy as a gauge to measure how much damage has been done and how likely we will be able to save the tree. All ash trees are at risk at this time. Because the infestation can only be handled by properly treating the EAB, ash trees MUST be treated in order to survive. It is only a matter of time for an uninfected ash tree to be overcome by the EAB.
How can this problem be fixed?
Unfortunately, the only way known to address this problem is to treat ash trees. If an ash tree is not infected but is being treated, any EAB that tries to make that tree home will be killed. If a tree is already infected, the treatment will work up through the vascular system of the tree and kill the EAB.
Why does this matter?
If ash trees are not treated, they will die. If an ash tree dies from EAB damage, it will need to be cut down and disposed of properly. The cost of properly removing an ash tree is far greater than treating! Ash trees are important to our environment in Indiana and around the country. We need to do what we can to protect them from this nasty invasive species.
We can help!
If you have an ash tree or want us to come identify your tree, give us a call! We will come out and inspect your ash trees for free and give you an estimate of what it would cost to treat them to protect from the Emerald Ash Borer. We have seen several neighborhoods in the Wabash Valley that have a very large EAB infestation. The chances are that if your ash tree is not infested now, it will be soon.
Be sure to follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram! Head over to our website for more information about services we offer.
Thursday, April 28, 2016
Turf Treatment: Grubs!
One of the most destructive insects that can infest your lawn is the white grub. If not properly controlled, severe damage can occur in a very short amount of time.
Life Cycle
To understand the grub, we need to understand their life cycle. The grub is the larva stage of several species of beetles, including Japanese beetles.
Summer- Beetles will feed on common ornamental plants, trees, and grasses. In doing so, they will lay eggs. The eggs protect the new insect from the environment until they hatch.
Fall- The newly hatched larva begin feeding on the root system of the turf. The damage will cause the turf to quickly deteriorate. The symptoms can include sod that can be easily pulled up, almost like rolling up a rug. Occasionally, animals such as raccoons or skunks will forage the turf for the grubs and cause additional damage.
Winter- As cold weather takes over, the grubs move to deeper soil and overwinter. This is similar to a hibernation stage for the grub.
Spring- Temperature rises and the grubs begin to move back towards the surface. They undergo several changes from the larva to pupa. In late spring and early summer the adult will finally emerge as a beetle.
Control Options
As with just about everything, it is always better to be proactive and not reactive! If an insecticide is applied when damage is occurring, it is usually too late. Our grub preventative program utilizes a product with imidacloprid to provide the best results. Because of the life cycle of the grub, the product does not have an impact when the insect is in the egg stage. Once the egg hatches, the grub will ingest the imidaclorprid and die.
An application in spring will ensure that the newly hatched larva in the summer are impacted by the application.
Common Grub and Japanese Beetle Questions
Treatments-The chemistry behind the products that we use today is different than the products of the past. I have been asked before "Doesn't it take 3 years for the grub control to work?" With applications such as milky spore, it would. However, the application we apply this spring will work this year!
Moles- Probably 9 out of 10 requests for grub control stems from the thought that it will get rid of moles. We do not sell a grub control with the side effect of treating moles. Grub treatments will get rid of the grubs, but we do not guarantee the elimination of anything else.
Japanese Beetle Traps- I have been asked about the yellow Japanese beetle traps or bags and if they work. One main problem with these traps is that it attracts beetles to it. When the beetles are attracted, they will lay eggs. This will cause a problem with future grub damage. If you insist on using a Japanese beetle trap, the best place to put it is in your neighbors lawn. Since that likely is not an option, the far back corner of your property away from ornamental plants, trees, and high traffic areas would be better.
Brown Spots- Far too often we will meet with potential customers and they will tell us that "XYZ Lawn Care" said we needed grub control because we have brown spots. Brown spots do not instantly mean you have grubs. If a company tries to sell you something over the phone by just looking at a satellite image, be very cautious. A brown spot can be a result of hundreds of factors, not just grubs.
___________________
Grubs and other common Indiana insects can cause a lot of destruction to your lawn. Unfortunately, they tend to migrate towards the healthiest lawns to feed on. A well maintained lawn with a strong root system can in turn cause become a smorgasbord for feeding insects. It is important to properly identify what symptoms your lawn has and determine the desired solution with realistic expectations.
We will never sell anything over the phone or just by looking at a picture. The only thing we use satellite images for is to measure a property. Visual inspections are required for us to adequately asses each customers needs and find the best solutions.
We would love to hear back from you! Leave comments below or write us on our Facebook page. We also have a new website! Be sure follow us on Instagram and Twitter!
 |
| Grub found in garden. |
Life Cycle
To understand the grub, we need to understand their life cycle. The grub is the larva stage of several species of beetles, including Japanese beetles.
Summer- Beetles will feed on common ornamental plants, trees, and grasses. In doing so, they will lay eggs. The eggs protect the new insect from the environment until they hatch. Fall- The newly hatched larva begin feeding on the root system of the turf. The damage will cause the turf to quickly deteriorate. The symptoms can include sod that can be easily pulled up, almost like rolling up a rug. Occasionally, animals such as raccoons or skunks will forage the turf for the grubs and cause additional damage.
Winter- As cold weather takes over, the grubs move to deeper soil and overwinter. This is similar to a hibernation stage for the grub.
Spring- Temperature rises and the grubs begin to move back towards the surface. They undergo several changes from the larva to pupa. In late spring and early summer the adult will finally emerge as a beetle.
Control Options
As with just about everything, it is always better to be proactive and not reactive! If an insecticide is applied when damage is occurring, it is usually too late. Our grub preventative program utilizes a product with imidacloprid to provide the best results. Because of the life cycle of the grub, the product does not have an impact when the insect is in the egg stage. Once the egg hatches, the grub will ingest the imidaclorprid and die.
An application in spring will ensure that the newly hatched larva in the summer are impacted by the application.
Common Grub and Japanese Beetle Questions
Treatments-The chemistry behind the products that we use today is different than the products of the past. I have been asked before "Doesn't it take 3 years for the grub control to work?" With applications such as milky spore, it would. However, the application we apply this spring will work this year!
Moles- Probably 9 out of 10 requests for grub control stems from the thought that it will get rid of moles. We do not sell a grub control with the side effect of treating moles. Grub treatments will get rid of the grubs, but we do not guarantee the elimination of anything else.
Japanese Beetle Traps- I have been asked about the yellow Japanese beetle traps or bags and if they work. One main problem with these traps is that it attracts beetles to it. When the beetles are attracted, they will lay eggs. This will cause a problem with future grub damage. If you insist on using a Japanese beetle trap, the best place to put it is in your neighbors lawn. Since that likely is not an option, the far back corner of your property away from ornamental plants, trees, and high traffic areas would be better.
Brown Spots- Far too often we will meet with potential customers and they will tell us that "XYZ Lawn Care" said we needed grub control because we have brown spots. Brown spots do not instantly mean you have grubs. If a company tries to sell you something over the phone by just looking at a satellite image, be very cautious. A brown spot can be a result of hundreds of factors, not just grubs.
___________________
Grubs and other common Indiana insects can cause a lot of destruction to your lawn. Unfortunately, they tend to migrate towards the healthiest lawns to feed on. A well maintained lawn with a strong root system can in turn cause become a smorgasbord for feeding insects. It is important to properly identify what symptoms your lawn has and determine the desired solution with realistic expectations.
We will never sell anything over the phone or just by looking at a picture. The only thing we use satellite images for is to measure a property. Visual inspections are required for us to adequately asses each customers needs and find the best solutions.
We would love to hear back from you! Leave comments below or write us on our Facebook page. We also have a new website! Be sure follow us on Instagram and Twitter!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)